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Date Posted |
Forum
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RE: Adding bike carrier
Hi all,
SteveRankin, I'm with you. I also had a 2 inch hitch receiver welded to the frame. I think it's the best way to go. I had this done to my last TT and when I traded it in then I also have had it done to my current TT.
I would add though that it is important to get a bike rack that is RATED FOR RV USE. The bike rack and bikes are really bounced around allot on the back of the RV, and most bike racks are not rated for this type of abuse. I went with a SWAGMAN bike rack that is rated for this use.
Larry
Very sound advice here. I have a 4-bike Allen Racks 2" receiver mounted bike rack on the back of my TT. I also have a Hidden Hitch receiver welded to the frame of the TT.
This past summer we went over a set of railroad tracks. About a 1/2 mile down the road I heard a strange scraping noise. We pull over to find one bike gone and three others with bent rims and shredded tires. The bike carrier is the fold away type that allows to let the bikes down to access the back hatch of a vehicle. The hinge bolt was fine, but the clasp mechanism that holds the rack upright had snapped and it fell out to it's extended position.
Of course it wasn't until after this incident that I saw the sticker on the rack that said "Do not use on the back of a trailer..." That would have been good info to have ahead of time. Over the winter I'm hoping to engineer something similar to the Top Pop rail over the A-frame of our TT. With 3 kids we're going to eventually need space for 5 bikes, so I'll try to make room for all 5 up front and then use the rear carrier for friend's bikes if necessary.
KJ
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LIKE2BUILD
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12/01/08 03:21pm |
Travel Trailers
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RE: Well I’m in the market for a new truck
I went to the Memphis version of the auto show a couple weeks ago. Looked at all the new trucks and came away believing no half ton out there would be a bad choice.
When I bought my TT I knew it was well beyond my comfort level for the '97 Chevy 1500 I owned at the time. So, I shopped around and found a 2500HD which is realistically waaaayyyy more truck than is really necessary.
I have absolutely no need for a new truck, but I have to say this round of Dodge commercials (regular guys driving them on a stunt track) has me very intrigued. I'm looking beyond the ridiculous jumps and stunts, but things like the RAM Box, built-in backup camera, and other features look pretty neat. If I were in the market to buy new, and the capacities were within my towing needs, I would definitely give this truck a long hard look.
KJ
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LIKE2BUILD
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12/01/08 12:27pm |
Tow Vehicles
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RE: towing with a 2500 hemi
.....Dodge hemi mine has cold air intake knn and dual exhaust out the rear unbeleivable amount of power ........previous truck 1991 chevy 2500 v8 350 slow gutless but you couldnt brake that truck.......
I hope you enjoy a good loud rumble. I had a '97 Chevy that had true dual exhaust (glass packs and 3.5" trumpets on the end) when I purchased it in 2003. Holy moly that thing sounded like a big rig with the jake brake on at all times. The worst was the cackle when the exhaust noise bounced off the TT right back at the cab. Uggghhh, that was a loud beast. I found a local shop that an OEM exhaust they had taken off a similar truck and had them install that from the catalytic converter back. Whew, that made the ride much more enjoyable.
Yes, the non-Vortec 350's were not exactly high output motors. But you're right that they were very reliable. I seem to recall something like 190HP and 225 ft*lbs of torque for that era? :h I'm guessing your new Dodge has somewhere above 350 for both HP and torque, so yeah you're going to experience a monstrous difference.
Enjoy the new truck.
KJ
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LIKE2BUILD
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12/01/08 12:16pm |
Tow Vehicles
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RE: confused about WD hitches.
Skip is right that this has nothing to do with State laws when it comes to towing your TT. However, it does have EVERYTHING to do with physical laws.
Your 2500HD, in all reality, can probably handle the tongue weight of the TT just fine without any WD hitch equipment. As Chad has said, it all has to do with your comfort level. With your TT hitched up, you're putting somewhere around 1,000# of weight behind the rear wheels. So, the wheels will act like a fulcrum and cause the front wheels to raise up a bit. The safety issue is that less weight on the front wheels decreases traction and thus can effect braking and steering performance. The WD equipment simply shifts some of the weight to the front wheels to keep things "equalized".
Certainly, there's a level of tongue weight that can be placed on the hitch without seriously effecting steering and braking. The question becomes, where is that level? On my 2500HD, I've pulled my 7000# (750# Tongue Weight) TT about 5 miles without the WD bars connected ( I was lazy that day). The truck pulled it fine, but I did notice a significant increase in porpoising and bounce when going over bumps and bridges. With the WD connected I feel the bumps, but the porpoising is nearly non-existent.
So for me is it okay to pull my TT again without the WD connected? Sure! It's no problem at all for just a short trip on low speed roads. However, I like the comfort factor of reduced bounce and the increased feeling of control when driving at highway speeds with the WD connected.
Physically, the tongue weight of your TT is probably within the rated specs of your receiver and the total weight is well within the trucks overall tow rating. The real question, as Chad pointed out, is what is your towing comfort level? Personally, I like the more solid feeling connection with the WD bars attached even though my truck can very easily tow my TT with a ball only.
KJ
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LIKE2BUILD
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12/01/08 10:01am |
Towing
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RE: storing my truck for a couple of years
Diesel fuel stays pretty stable, so it's not too much of an issue. Top the tank up to prevent moisture build up in the tank, I think Stabil is good for diesel also, check the label. There are diesel stabilizers out there.
If it's covered storage then crack the windows a bit, throw a battery tender on it. If out side then get a good quality cover for it and leave the windows closed just in case. Change the oil just before storing.
Best bet would be putting it on stands to prevent flat spots on the tires, but that's usually not an option.
Absolute best thing would be to let someone have it to drive a couple of times a month, but again that's sometimes not an option.
Other than that, just put it in a good safe area.
EDIT-Mothballs. Put some mothballs under the seats. A guy that restores cars said he does that during off season storage. A few in a tray under each front seat.
I'd say this is all good advice. However, you stated this truck is a 2005 so that means by the time you return from your absence those batteries will be nearly 6 years old. My experience has been that OEM batteries are usually shot between 5 and 6 years of age. So, rather than use a battery tender, I'd just get rid of the batteries and then plan to install two new ones when you get back and begin using the truck again.
KJ
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LIKE2BUILD
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11/30/08 09:31pm |
Tow Vehicles
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RE: fold-down combined tv/dvd/stereo unit?
.....TV and stereo unit, all in one, digital tuner, FM radio, DVD, CD ....
I've been looking for the same thing for our upcoming kitchen remodel in our home. I came across this Flip down digital TV/DVDfrom Amazon.com. It has a 10.2" screen, which is about the biggest I've seen on these kinds of units. For $200, this seems like a pretty full featured unit.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/images/B0013O80NQ/ref=dp_image_0?ie=UTF8&n=172282&s=electronics
KJ
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LIKE2BUILD
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11/28/08 11:50am |
Technology Corner
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RE: How to sell an RV????
SteveRankin and MicDuran are right on with their advice. When you look up the value of your TT on NADA and Kelley Blue Book, you need to focus on the private party price. Many buyers really don't care what the Retail Value is because they've gone to these same sights and looked it up for themselves.
I've sold several vehicles privately and the following strategy has worked well each time. Look up the Private Party, Low Retail, and Trade-in values from NADA and KBB. Average these values and that's a reasonable amount to expect as a bottom price. Place your asking price somewhere between trade-in and low retail values but expect to be somewhere between that and the above mentioned cumulative average as your final amount.
Also, don't get offended when somebody shoots a crazy lowball offer. They're just trying to get a steal. When they do that, counter offer with an acceptable amount and see what they do. If they are not interested in coming up, shake their hand, say thank you, and ask them to leave. If they aren't willing to closely meet your price, they weren't really all that interested.
My final word of advice, DON'T SQUABBLE OVER $500. Yes, I did yell that because I've seen it come back to bite me. Case in point. My sister hit a rough stretch so I tried to sell her truck for her. I had 3 different offers, all $500 below her bottom dollar. Each time she said no, she had to have $XX,XXX. So, after 4 months I gave her the truck back. She kept it for another 3 months (making payments all this time at about $600/month) and finally sold it for $2000 lower than the highest offer I had received. She still had to make 2 more payments before the amount she sold it for equalled the payoff and the bank would release the title!! If she had just taken the offer I had received, she could have sold it for payoff and not lost any more money.
I almost did the same thing on a truck I sold a year later. I lost one offer that was $500 under what I considered my lowest price. I had if for another month and got the same offer from a different buyer. When that offer came in I jumped on it without thinking twice.
My point here: don't sell this like it's made of gold. There are a million RV's out there, so buyers have options. Be reasonable, be honest, and be fair and you can sell this.
KJ
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LIKE2BUILD
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11/26/08 01:13pm |
Travel Trailers
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RE: Should I do it
....There is nothing wrong with my Ex........With four kids the more room the better, but for the 2-3 long trips a year I think we can handle it.
That statement says everything I need to hear. Keep the Excursion!!!!!
I have a crew cab truck with front and rear bench seats and 3 boys. Currently we have the capacity for all 5 of us and one of my son's friend's when we go camping. Even for short trips, having all 6 seats occupied can get a little cozy.
Keep the Ex and it's roomy interior. you probably already know that kids are much more enjoyable on long trips when they have room to spread out.
KJ
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LIKE2BUILD
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11/26/08 12:39pm |
Tow Vehicles
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RE: The 2009 Insurance Institute for Highway Safety awards
GM may have 50 cars, but honestly most are same vehicle with different unit badges. How many flavors of the same SUV or crossover? Sure seems in this current difficult economic time, GM could save a bundle by reducing duplication of models, is 4 badges on the same vehicle necessary or smart?
Here here :B I have been saying this same thing for a long time. Why do we have "Like A Rock" and "Commercial Grade" trucks when they are the exact same vehicles, with the exception of slightly different fenders, hoods, and a few interior amenities?
We have several small schools in our area and the topic of consolidation comes up frequently. People moan and groan about it because this or that will change. When it comes down to it, the only real reason people don't want to do it is because "we've always had XYZ High School and it should just stay that way". No real logic in that argument, just comfort and familiarity.
The same goes for GM (or Ford-Lincoln-Mercury for that matter). There's no real logical reason why they have 4 different makes of the same car. They've just always had them and that's where they are comfortable. GM did kill off Oldsmobile and now it's probably time to look even deeper. When times get tough you either trim off the excesses or you go under. The same goes for Ford. Is there really a need to have ultra, upscale Lincoln versions of the Expedition and F150? Are enough of these sold to offset the development and production line costs? I mean, come on, who on earth truly needs a $50,000 1/2 ton truck :h
KJ
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LIKE2BUILD
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11/25/08 09:19am |
Tow Vehicles
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RE: A word of THANKS to all senior RVer's
Our maiden trip was about 165 miles (Calgary Ab. to the Crowsnest Pass) with a cross wind 45 mph gusting to 65. The front end of my truck was dancing all over the highway. I see what you mean about white knuckle trips! My first job after getting home was to send the Reese back to him and order a Pro-Pride. What a difference. THANKS AGAIN for your opions.
Charles Cox
I'm sure the Pro-Pride works fantastic. However, the front end dancing comment points directly to an incorrectly adjusted hitch. It sounds to me that the dealer just slapped the hitch into your truck, hooked on the trailer, and sent you on your way.
If they had taken the time, they would have measured the unhitched height of your front wheel wells, then, when the truck was connected to the trailer they would have remeasured that distance. They SHOULD HAVE then adjusted the tilt of the hitch head until the wheel wells were returned to the wheel wells returned to unhitched height when the WD hitch was engaged.
IF the dealer had done this, you most likely would not have experienced that terrible drive home. Yes the cross winds would have made you wiggle some, but not to the extent that you describe.
The Pro-Pride and it's close cousin, the Hensley Arrow, are certainly fantastic hitches. However, a properly spec'd and adjusted WD hitch with the the Dual Cam system should provide all the weight transfer and sway control you need.
KJ
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LIKE2BUILD
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11/24/08 09:22pm |
Travel Trailers
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RE: 2006 truck with intermediate shaft problem
Hi, I have the truck in signature and have the steering clunk. I know it is the intermediate steering shaft, but what I would like to know is has anyone had the new improved shaft installed and had the problem gone?
I had the replacement shaft installed under warranty and also had the TSB directed "lube and exercise" procedure. The shaft was at 20,000 miles and the lube was at 24,000 miles. The clunk returned by 40,000 and I have lived with it ever since.
I have read about installing a zerk fitting on the shaft shaft to make greasing it easy when the clunk returns. Below are two links, one is to instructions for removing the shaft. Here they are actually referring to performing the lube and exercise, but you can just follow the procedures for removing the shaft and retainer clip. The second link is to the DieselPlace forum where the zerk installation is described. I hope to do this some time soon since I'm beginning to get very annoyed by the clunk.
Intermediate Steering Shaft Removal
Grease Zerk Install on ISS
Hope this helps.
KJ
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LIKE2BUILD
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11/21/08 09:26am |
Tow Vehicles
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RE: 2008 Chevy Suburban
I had an 03 Avalanche 1500 with the 5.3L and it pulled same trailer with no problem. I think the 08 Burb will pull this TT just fine as well if not better than my Avalanche did. It is rated at a min of 8100 #'s. If I wanted weight police I would go to the interstate, not rv.net
I don't believe anyone was trying to be the weight police here, only pointing out that you are stepping down significantly in GVWR of your tow vehicle. This is exactly what Ben is trying to point out below.
You have a 2500HD (heavy 3/4 ton, or light 1 ton..9.2K GVWR). Is the Sub a 7.2K GVWR or 8.6K GVWR? Both lighter duty than your 2500HD. Plus since SUV, weighs more than most think. The extra insulation, rows of seats, glass, doors, etc all add weight, which subtracts, pound for pound, from the MTWR.
A 30' travel trailer will have some decent weight to it. What Ben is trying to point out is if you get the 1500 Suburban (7200# GVWR) you might have very little capacity left for your TT's tongue weight once you load the family in the vehicle.
Do people tow beyond the weight limits of a vehicle? Sure, they do it all the time but that doesn't mean it's the right thing to do. What folks are doing is here is trying to help you from spending a bunch of money, only to find that you don't have the necessary capacity for towing and/or hauling.
KJ
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LIKE2BUILD
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11/20/08 12:29pm |
Tow Vehicles
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RE: Towing 6800# with an F150? Should I go 3/4 ton instead?
I'm in the market for a lightly-used pickup or SUV around 15-20K, and need some help.
What are your thoughts?? Any help appreciated.
Thx, Ben
I bought my truck searching Autotrader.com and found a fantastic deal a few years ago. I would suggest you keep looking there until you find a sweetheart deal.
As others have said, the F150 will probably do the job. However, if you don't drive the truck all that often, then maybe looking at 250/2500 trucks is a good idea. Also, that 6800# dry TT will easily approach 8000# loaded and ready to camp. Again, the F150 can probably do it, but an F250 with V10 or GM 2500 with 8.1L will do it better. If you look at my sig, I'm pulling my TT with a GM 2500HD and the small block 6.0L gasser. My TT is 7,000# and it pulls fine. The truck with full fuel and two adults weighs 6300#, so it's no featherweight. You could probably go with an F250 or GM 2500HD with the small block and be just fine. However, I'd look for a V10 or 8.1L if it can be found for a good price. There is just no replacement for torque when it comes to towing.
Even though gas prices have fallen, the recent $4/gallon has spooked a lot of people and they are no longer buying HD trucks as grocery getters. Translation: there are a glut of them on the used market that are going for relatively cheap prices.
I did an Autotrader search for your zip code and found this 2003 F250, crew cab, 4X4, V10, 50K miles for $16,900.
http://images.autotrader.com/images/2008/11/13/252/976/7631.252976822.IM1.MAIN.565x421_A.562x421.jpg
Kelley Blue Book says this is an $18,000 truck. I bet you could throw an offer of $15,000 at the dealer and probably meet somewhere around $16,000 on the price.
At this mileage, this truck would last you a long time if you don't drive it all that often.
KJ
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LIKE2BUILD
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11/19/08 09:50am |
Tow Vehicles
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RE: New TV-Ford F150
One more thing, where can I find the RPO sticker? Thanks in advance for any info.
Blake
You've had plenty of good advice regarding the towing capacity of this truck, so I won't comment there.
RPO is an acronym for REGULAR PRODUCTION OPTIONS and is an alphanumeric system used by General Motors. Basically, every detail about the model, options, build date, location, delivery, etc of a GM vehicle can be found on the RPO sticker located in the glove compartment.
I'm sure Ford must use something to supply these details, but I wouldn't have the first clue where to look.
Good Luck.
KJ
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LIKE2BUILD
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11/17/08 12:05pm |
Tow Vehicles
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RE: Too much weight distribution?
Anyway, if the 1200 lb bars prove to be too stiff, you can replace just the bars, probably drop back to an 800# rating. These are usually a stock item at RV and hitch dealers, and not that expensive.
I agree. If the 12,000/1200 hitch with all parts (head, shank, bars, chains, and snap-up brackets) can be purchased VERY cheap then go for it! To buy that equipment new, plus a shank could cost over $400.
You can get 800# Trunion bars for $150 from Etrailer.com. So, if you can buy this complete hitch and the replacement bars for under $400 then you're money ahead. Plus you'll have a set of heavier bars in the event you get a larger trailer.
KJ
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LIKE2BUILD
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11/14/08 01:49pm |
Towing
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RE: EZ Connector---my wiring problems are sloved
The short story; this little fellow is completely waterproof (so dust, dirt and corrosion are not even a consideration), and with the spring loaded brass contacts pressing into the plug while the magnets hold the plug and socket together make it a “self-tightening” situation. Magnets? That’s what I thought until I tried to pull them apart, and found it requires a healthy tug.
These guys really have built a better mouse trap.
This is not a new concept, but definitely a new very neat application. Apple Inc. has used the "MagSafe" power adapter on it's laptops for a few years now:
http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/8/81/Apple_magsafe_tight.jpg/250px-Apple_magsafe_tight.jpg
Ever tripped over a cord and saw the attached device go flying? That's why they invented this.
As far as I know, the magnets will NOT weaken over time, so this should be a solid connection for many years to come. I too wasn't real pleased with the OEM plug on my '04 Chevy. In addition to replacing the receiver I eventually installed a new connector in the bumper to the left of the license plate. This is just like GM did with the 2007+ models. Even though the Polak receptacle is identical to the OEM, it's much more solid in the bumper and it gets the cord further off the road and less likely to get snagged.
KJ
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LIKE2BUILD
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11/14/08 09:30am |
Towing
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RE: The trailer / RV industry could learn a lot from this
Not too bad, except that would about triple the cost of a TT.
Now, a solar panel that lowers for travel and raises while parked to help charge the batteries would be pretty reasonable.
KJ
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LIKE2BUILD
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11/06/08 09:55pm |
Travel Trailers
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RE: sway bars are they worth it?
can someone shed some light on sway bars and what's a good one to go with?
When you say "sway bars" do you mean a weight distributing hitch
http://www.etrailer.com/Merchant2/graphics/00000001/catg/wd_75.jpg
or do you mean friction sway bars?
http://www.etrailer.com/Merchant2/graphics/00000001/pics/3/4/3400.jpg
If you already have a weight distributing hitch, most around here agree that the friction sway bars are only effective on relatively light rigs and up to about a 25'travel trailer. After that they aren't much good. My suggestion, if you already have a WD hitch, would be to get the Reese Dual Cam #26001 kit. These are very effective regardless of trailer length and weight. I've used mine with great success for the last 4 years.
http://www.etrailer.com/Merchant2/graphics/00000001/pics/2/6/26001.jpg
http://www.etrailer.com/Merchant2/graphics/00000001/pics/2/6/26001_2.jpg
Now, if you mean a complete weight distributing hitch, then you need to start talking about tongue weights, shank drop/height, and many other aspects when selecting one.
KJ
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LIKE2BUILD
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11/06/08 03:04pm |
Travel Trailers
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RE: Front wheel drive Suburbans, Escalades
The front-drive-based Lambda architecture has not been seen as the ideal platform for towing applications, but if the Suburban and Escalade ESV SUVs have been slated to move to the platform, GM has presumably overcome that problem.
:h
That's putting a great deal of faith in the engineers. Translation, it hasn't worked well in the past, but we're sure it's fixed now.
It looks like from now on people need significant passenger seating and towing ability will be forced to get 350/3500 series vans. This is by no means a slight to the vans, but it will certainly limit, if not eliminate, people's choice of full size SUV's for any significant towing duties.
KJ
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LIKE2BUILD
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11/05/08 10:37am |
Tow Vehicles
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RE: Is 7400lbs for a 4.7 realistic?
Hi all! First time poster.
My '92 Suburban (5.7L) finally quit. Now I'm in the market for a new SUV to tow my 2006 Hornet 27B.
Is the Suburban fixable at a reasonable price? When you say quit, what exactly happened? If the Suburban towed the TT fine, then maybe fixing the problem is sufficient.
If you really like the 'burb, then why not look for another one? A quick Autotrader.com search turned up this 2004 Yukon XL 4X4 2500 for under $15,000. Dealers are having a hard time moving full size SUV's, so you might be able to make quite a deal on something like this. A 1500 series 'burb with the 5.3L engine (definitely go 3.73 gears) would probably work okay too, but the 2500 'burb gets you the 6.0L engine, HD transmission, and higher rated axles.
Just a few thoughts to chew on.
KJ
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LIKE2BUILD
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11/04/08 08:55pm |
Tow Vehicles
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